Hello Friends
hope all are well
now im back in Nepal's 2nd city- Pokhara- about 200kms west (or a 9 hour bus ride) of the capital Kathmandu.
last evening i arrived in town returning from the ong trekking journeys around the Anapurna mountain range. Wow, how to describe this- words hardly seem sufficient to capture the many elements to the experience. It was physically, visually, culturally, environmentally, and emotionally challenging and stimulating. Each day i would walk 20-30kms (6-8 hours) with my 15kg pack- someimtes gaining up to 2000m in altitiude in one day. Most people take 18+ days to complete the trek but i did it in 13. My legs, feet and back are painfully strained, my lips were parched by the cold, my face burned by the sun, rashes grew between my toes, i sweated litres and went days without a shower, but after all i feel great- it's definately been more than worth it.
Among others, highlights included a 2-day side trip to the worlds highest lake- lake Tilcho (4920m), and climbing over a 5430m high snow covered pass in -15 degree temperatures. Despite the cold, incl. freezing nights- could not have expected more from the weather for the entire time- with perfect clear blue skies everyday, (need not have lugged the rainjacket!), and the mountain views were consistently jaw-drop stunning.
Nepal is like a country pushed together and folded into a size smaller than it deserves, with a land surface area far grater than it appears on a map. This means that hugely varying forms of geographical and ecological environments exist in relatively smaller areas, and this trek, in one of Nepals most richly diverse natural environments, took full advantage of this particular feature of Nepal. Over the journey i was able to pass through wildly various forms of terrain from densely populated green river valleys, up to dry temperate forests, over a snow-covered pass to parched brown & yellow high altitude deserts, down to tropical rainforest before up to another apline forest at 3000m and finally down again through terraced villages and jungle. Passed through many various and culturally distinct tribal areas- including Nepali, Gurung, Tibetan and Thakali- each with different languages, livelihoods, spiritual beliefs, architecture and appearances.
Scenery included many high waterfalls, sheer ice covered cliff faces, clear blue mountain lakes, towering glacier covered peaks (many over 6000m high), rumbling rivers, wide mountain valleys, lush jungles, rainforest and rare high altitude wildlife- birds and mammals, dodging many tamer forms of wildlife along the track- livestock (cows, yaks, goats, buffaloes, sheep, chickens, ducks etc.) , donkeys (colourfully decorated in convoys), mules, horses, dogs, heavily laden porters carrying everything including the kitchen sink, and others.
Each day would sleep in villages guesthouses along the way, eating only breakfast and dinner, trekking, drinking only mountain water from numerous streams, arrive to a village- explore, taking photos, then eat, pack, sometimes shower then sleep, often fitfully as my body struggled to adjust to the high altitudes.
It was wonderful to get a taste of Tibetan life, geography and culture in the highest and driest mountain valleys of Manang and Manthang during the middle of the trek. The Buddhist faith of these people was prominent in the elaborate, clourful and often ancient temples, numerous prayer wheels, sacred stones and general calm demeanour of the people. Pictures of the Dalai lama often on display. Manthang, the driest and seemingly least hospitable of these regions has been settled for almost 3000 years by the Tibetans ancestors- as a visit to the local cultural musum revealed.
Along the way i walked, dined and chatted with many peoples- Nepali guides from Kathmandu, Tibetan women hefting firewood, Chinese, Israeli, French, Austrian, Kiwi, Czech, Yank and fellow Aussie tourists. They came in all ages and travelling styles- big tour groups, couples, friends and other independents- some looking for physical adventure challenge- while others still looking for some pampering in the isolated mountains. But mostly i walked on my own- going at my own speed, and saving my breath to greet with the friendly locals. Had a few path crossings with local Maoist cadres too.
The route was clearly a well-trodden tourist path, in the beginning it seemed difficult to have real interactions with locals who have grown to depend on the tourist dollar and who maybe had become jaded with the tourist hordes- but i should have expected this from the start. The self-interested atmosphere also seemed to lessen as i reached the higher, Tibetan areas.
Other prominent memories include a midnight hot spring session, staring up at the stars in Tatopani and a few scarce moments of calmly contented meditation such as at the pass of Throung La, the summit of this trekking mission. So many experiences to remember and cherish, but the awesome and varied physical terrain such like i had never before experienced, and the local peoples, their challenging livelihoods and deep cultural beliefs are what i feel will really stay with me.
Today enjoyed a kayak circuit around Fewa lake- nepals 2nd largest lake that Pokhara sits on the shores of. Its just across the calm lake from the chaos of Pokhara city to the peace and quiet of rural villages, and chirping birds, hooting monkeys of lakeside forests.
Next will be up another hilltop for sunrise tomorrow, then on to Kathmandu the following day where i will cycle through the chaotic city to visit the many sites, and i still have Chitwan national park and Lumbini (Buddhas birthplace) to look forward to in Nepal too!
Peace and love to all friends and family
Callum