Now in Pokhara, Nepal, bout to set off on a two-week trekking journey around the Anapurna mountain range, a distance of 200km or so.
Nepal is beautiful and a contrast to India in many ways.
After departing Patna, i took an overnight bus to the bordertown, Raxaoul. This was some experience in itself.
A short way into the journey while still on well-lit highways, i noticed while in a half asleep stupor only darkness where light from our headlights should have been shining. I thought little of it-perhaps the driver was saving battery on the lighted road?
Later i woke again and we were driving in complete blackness and i started to get worried. It was a moonless night and we were careening along at 80kmph on a rough, very busy 1.5 lane 2 way road only by the rear light on cars (mostly trucks) in front. When the trucks in front turned off we pulled over half off the road by the light of the attendants torch. Everytime (every few seconds) a vehicle went past in the opposite direction our drivers tactic was to swerve into their driving line and headlight view with moments to spare so they could know we were there and therefore not drive straight into us once past the truck in front. I was figuring that my odds of becoming one of the 1000s of Indian road casualties were now getting high.
After we finally stopped (5 hours after the lights failed), I had well-spoken Indian teenage fellow passengers explaining to me the 'uncivilised' nature of most Biharis as reason for their meek acceptance of the shadow bus as night-time transportation. Apparently we were going to change bus to one of the functioning vehicles stationed here, which we eventually did after waiting around for 1.5 hours and when the sun had risen anyway (??). The road for the last 3 hours or so was filled with craters, so no chance of sleep for even the hardiest snoozer. Apparently it is due to a dispute between India and Nepal over maintenance of this road- India claiming that Nepal should pay because the road is primarily used as a route for imported freight goods to Nepal. The state of the road is testament to both governments disrespect for the many 000s of local peoples who neddlessly suffer the pain, expense and inconvenience of such a shocking road. Someone should organise a protest.
Crossing to Nepal was a matter of negotiating bribe hungry officials on both sides of the border. Needless to say i risked serious delay by not paying a penny- to discourage this greedy extortion.
Found a bus to my planned destination Pokhara. This ($5AUD, 9 hour) local bus journey felt like paradise compared to the last. The views of distant mountains and river valleys along the way were captivating. The inspiring diversity of Nepal- both geographically and ethnically was obvious. i also noticed the greater visibility of women here compared to India (at least where i was in Bihar state, which is one of the poorest and most backward in India) , less conservatively covered and smiling more. Even noticed a boyish looking female bus freight loader atop a bus roof! This contrasted to the oppressive atmosphere i had experienced in Bihar (at least partly due to some culture shock!). Dancing brightly dressed ethnic minority girls whirled seductively on the sides of roads while circled by appreciative crowds of locals.
Only downside was a sense of foreboding developing with me. My stomach was beginning to feel like a putrid concoction filled cauldron, bubbling and waiting to boil over violently at any moment.
At least it waited until Pokhara, were we arrived a couple of hours after dusk. found a cheap room ($2AUD with private bathroom). Was up all night with explosive dysyntery, fever and vomiting. the antibiotics i had bought in anticipation at the bordertown seemed to have no effect.
Felt very weak, so slept in, but knew i had to make use of my first full day in Nepal. Visited pharmacy for some more drugs before setting out to discover the town. Rented a bicycle (i felt a bit unsteady walking), and rode to 2 hindu temples, down to the dam of the local lake (Phewa Tal, 2nd largest in Nepal), to a waterfall that disappears underground, before mustering the energy to climb a large hill, through a dark forest, to the World Peace Pagoda to get a wonderful view across the lake, city and distant mountains. Returned to hotel and fell asleep without eating lunch or dinner, exhausted. This morning prepped for long trek in the mountains, praying that soon my stomach could return to close to normal functioning, though it had barely improved the night before.
Will write again with reports from the long walk through the mountains- could be a while cause i doubt theres internet up there!