Since i last wrote i had one last day in Pokhara and then bussed to the nations capital and bustling city of Kathmandu. Have had 3 days here exploring all the most important and attractive sights (thee are many) in the city and surrounding valley.
In Pokhara, the final day was spent viewing sunrise over a himalayan panorama from the highest local peak, Sarangkot at 1592m, where there was a180 degree clear view up to the soaring peaks of Dhauligiri, Niligiri, Glacier Dome, AnnapurnaI, II & III, Machhupachhure, Gangpaurna, Lamjung Himal and others, all well over 6000m covered in now, glowing golden with the first rays of sun. Could see right across and around the valleys of Pokhara, Phewa lake and the high himalayan foothills petering away towards the Gangetic plain in the south. Felt a bit lazy to trek 3 hours from town to the hilltop- so indulged in a motorbike for the bumpy ride up there (And thrilling coming down!) from town- excusing myself with the idea i couldn't catch the sunrise if i trekked!
Took my time up there, chatting with some energetic Nepali youngsters on tour from Kathmandu, dodging other tourists (mostly Nepali and Indians) for the best pics, trying to avoid photgraphing the army base we were perched in and above (with big signs saying DO NOT PHOTOGRAPH HERE- kinda hard considering it was all around), and generally basking in the birds eye views of the world below (and above).
In the afternoon- travlled across town by public bus to visit a Gurung (Tamu) cultural museum - these guys are the ones who make up the famous British army Gurkha regiment. They also have a fascinating cultural tradition- such as haunting music and possession like-dancing, beautiful handcrafts, shamanic cermonies mixing nature spirit worship with Tibetan Bonn religion and Buddhism, tradtional medicine and other ceremonies. Reminded in many ways of the cultural practices of some more traditional mountain ethnic groups in SE Asia like the Akha- may have had similar burmo-tibetan origins. While i was there a funerary ceremony was taking place, which i humbly observed. There was dancing, chanting anround the white-cloth wrapped body. Later, by the riverside a shaman and the first born son led prayers, which were followed by ceremonial piling with sticks then lighting of the body on fire. Good time to contemplate mortality.
Next day the long bus ride to Kathmandu was scenic but windy, narrow rode- some of the other tourists on the bus seemed about to have a heart attack as we passed around blind corner and swered within inches of trucks flying past- but hey, that's driving in Nepal!
found a GH in Thamel, the tourist district of KMD and explored the streets some on the first night, i discovered the traffic, crowds, action gave the place alot of buzz and the touts were quick off the mark and persistent too. lots of tourists and a large area full of GHs, hotels, bars, souvenir shops, travel agencies, cafes, postage service, trekking shops, laundry, massage and about any other business you could imagine tourists might need.
Next morning found a bike for rent and figured this was my ticket, renting it for 3 days planning some serious touring around to the sites of the area. 1st day went out to Sywayumbanath buddhist temple, a towering stone and gold-gilded stupa surrounded by smaller stupas, sikharas, shrines, bells, prayer wheels, ancient inscribed stones, bronze lotuses underfoot, candles, boddhisatva statues, wheel of life symbols, several ornately accessorised gompas (tibetan monasteries), one with a massive statue of the buddha sakyamuni, and the area is replete with colourful prayer flags tied up between all the high points on the monuments. Alot to take in, so a wandered for more than an hour. One particularly sacred shrine was packed with worshippers and richly decorated in gold. The whole complex has great views over the city and valley, through the smog of pollution, mostly caused by vehicles. A long staircase up to the temple is lined with animal statues (buddhas vehicles), sacred prayer stones and large painted buddhas in meditation. Also hordes of macaque monkeys keen to snatch your lunch (one got a piece of mine!). After Swayunbunath, i headed further out past the stupa to an important but much smaller Vishnu temple, to get a taste of the countryside and talk to a few friendly locals more nice views too and a zoom coming back down on the bike- hadn't tested the brakes much first and i very nearly came off going over a speed hump at 40kmph+ -right in front of an armed soldier!
Next rode around th city to the country's most important and sacred Hindu shrine, dedicated to the god of creating and destruction Shiva in his most benevolent form as Pashnupati. Cremations going on here, emotional families, burning bodies by the river and rows of ornate and towering temples behind. I walked up to the stone terraces on opposite side of river to watch the going on, with a view over the many temple roofs in the large complex. Rama is worshipped in a temple here to, and 3 other temples up a stone lined walkway behind pashnupatinath were also large, one with a heavy dome, many smaller shivalinga shrines, statues in a forest of tall old trees. Chatted with a local nutter who was raving loudly and incomprehensively from a highpoint in the centre of the complex to locals dismay- he seemed to appreciate my efforts to calmly relate- perhaps not so nuts -just craving attention.
Later i rode on to Boudnath, the massive buddhist stupa, famous for its half-closed eyes painted on its base of its pointed top. Many tibetan laypeople and monks and other devotes here, tourists, moving in a steady processions clockwise around the temples base and i joined the flow. Circle of shops, art galleries, restaurants hotels, and one large golden-painted tibetan gompa around the stupa. Climbed up the whitewased sides of the stupa to circle higher and pay my respects at the shrine, contemplation on his teachings bringing a few moments of calm contentedness. View of the mountains over the open rooftops of the old buildings.
Pushed on for one more temple in the evening a few ks further out- the gorkana mahadev temple- a hindu temple, malla style, dedicated to shiva but with many elegant1000+ year old statues of all the hindu gods & goddesses and god forms surrounding he main building. Here a friendly & knowledgable member of the temple conservation commitee was happy to show me around- such as to a unique statue of 1st vedic (Rig-Veda- 5000+ year history) era rishi and a horizontal statue of shiva reclining of a bed of nagas (normally only vishnu is in this position).

Yesterday was dedicated to exploring the other two prominent cities of the valley- Patan and Bhaktapur- that were rival city states with Kathmandu for many years during 15th-18th centuries- they competed with each other through vigourous building of monuments and the legacy is awesome displays of architectural masterpieces lined up in each city square. Many other old, golden, gilded, and ornately carved, decorated temples, stupas, shrines and ghats to visit in the surrounds of each town as well. No shortage of devotees paying their respects to each of the deities either. In Patan (only a few ks south of Kathmandu), it's own durbar (palace) square was some sight to behold. Stone-paved square and wide stone walkway beside the palace wall, extending for about 200m, the length lined by many tall and elaborately designed building of different styles, stairways up to temple shrines lined by massive statues of guardians, elephants, horses, lions. In front of many of the temples was a stone column topped with a statue of the temples presiding deity, with a statue of the Malla-era king atop the column opposite the palace entrance. The beautifully carved golden doorway lintel leading into the palace especially memorable. The many surrounding old and masterful building gave a real ambience of artistic history a continuing legacy from the crowds of locals themselves enjoying the ambience. Bumped in to an Aussie, Dale, id met in the mountains while in the Austrian funded and well displayed Patan museum. Also visited a number of other wonderful hindu & buddhist temples in Patan, such as the golden (mahavir temple) and the mahabuddha temple.
Next to Bhakpatur, 20kms north-east of Patan. here the sense of history was even more pronounced, the old-city's buildings invariably tall old-looking and ceramic brown with fine wooden windowframes. The narrow stone streets of this town, hardly let any sunlight in between the buildings and are thankfully free from cars and motorbikes. 3 separate public squares in this town offered superb architectural surroundings. The heavy golden palace entrance archway was even more exquisite than Patan, bells, peacocks, shimmering in the sun- a priceless artwork of humanity (thats why its UNESCO world heritage listed!). The palace here is known as the 55-window palace for the 55 equisitvely carved windows that line it. The towering five-tierd Nyatapola is dedicated to the goddess of the 5 earthly elements, and wa a great place to climb up and watch the square below, hustling sellers and bustling crowds, and admire the buildings around. Further east is the famous peacock window, the most equisitely carved wooden window of all, the detail so fine i could hardly make out its depths from just 2 metres away. Bhaktapur with its woodcarving legacy is naturally thus home to a thriving wooden handicraft industry, and also many ceramic artisans, their shapely wares on evenly patterned display in the potters square. In other parts of town were Nepal largest lingams, many stone carved shiva and buddha statues sitting on small stupas by the river and a colourful Ram-Sita (heroes of the famous ancient epic, the Ramayana) temple.
Last moments of sunlight were passed at a temple to the sun god, Surya Binayak, south of and overlooking the rooftops of bhaktapur, it tall temples, the surrounding valley and its cultivated fields, and a row of glowing pink himialyan moutains far in the distance to the north.
Today was spent exploring sites closer to home- in Kathmandu city itself- primarily the Dubar square area and south towards the river. The Talleju temple at the top of the square was the most massive but none allowed to enter (enjoyed the colorful entranceway instead) except for festival days. Kathmandap, at the south of the square, is the large and multi-roofed wooden pavilion, built during the 12th century, that gave the city its name. In between were many varied, tall, colorful, elegantly shaped temples and shrines, including an important colourful shrine, a black statue to Bharaib, one of Shivas most vengful and destructive forms, wearing a necklace of skulls many devotees here (he must be placated). Further along the happy couple Shiva & Parvati are housed in a beautfilly carved wooden palace (and stare ot from the top story window). All this runs along beside the old royal palace with a carved wooden facade, tample towers and even a section of European-style white columnades. Took a relaxing break sitting on the top level of the Maju deval, watching the bust streets below. Rode south to visit sites outside the durbar square, like the queens pond, makhala temple and a vishnu/shiva/brahma (trimutri) temple beside the river.
As with Patan and Bhaktapur the woodcarvings on temple, palace and (even regular) home buildings was spectacular (though i reckon Bhaktapur takes the cake). The architectural diversity of these cities should not be underestimated- there are many different styles such as wooden/stone, Malla dynasty era (multi-tiered roofs), Sikhara (Indian style honeycomb shape), Mughal (square and domed) to name only few, and all the temples are unique in their own ways. Hard to stop taking photos with each having something different to offer.
also visited a smaller Boudnath replica temple near Thamel, where an old tibetan lady and i took a mutual shining communicating through smiles & gestures, we wandered clockwise around the temple. Thangka peddlers persistent here too.
To me these monuments symbolise all the powerful forces that work on earth and in human nature explained through the pantheon of Hindu deities and incarnations, each honoured, acknowledged through shrines, temples (with blessings hoped for). From the Hindu perspective, Buddha is integrated into the faith as an incarnation of Vishnu- buddhists can be sensitive to this topic (e.g anti-hindu graffiti at buddha as vishnu shrine), While many other temples are dedicated solely to Buddha as the enlightened one, who simplified and purified the corrupted and ritualisitc, inidividually limiting and self-justifying forms of hinduism (e.g. rejected caste system). Today Nepal is majority Hindu (approx 80%), with a significant buddhist minority (approx 15%).
All this sightseeing involved riding over 50kms per day through some very congested, bumpy streets and narrow alleyways- buses flying past, horns from all directions- was all sorts of fun!
Tried to do some shopping this afternoon- alot of fine crafts here- but bargaining is a challenge with the inflated tourist prices. Got some fabric and brassware, then sent a 10kg box home, full of warm gear for trekking, books and shopping.
It is a product of the unemployment and poor infrastructure in Nepal that sponging off tourists becomes the most attractive option for many- perhaps they can't afford pride or a sense of morality (like i would understand it) either. So i should have compassion for the professional hasslers, though their surely a serious test of patience- i have to shake off dozens of ambitious and persisent folks each day. Yes, it is not easy as a independent and individual traveller in these parts when your on a tight budget with a heavy itinerary and a tight schedule too. Tomorrow am off to Chitwan national park in the south and central, lowland (terai) part of the country. Hope to see much wildlife and get a break from the city. I have taken the easy option and booked a package to visit chitwan, so we'll see if that takes any spice out of the adventure. Then to Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha, where i hope to find some serenity and enjoy the atmosphere, before crossing to India- to Varanasi en route to Khajuraho i imagne (but u never know....)- so my next entry will be from Incredible India!
goodbye and good luck!