Saturday, February 2, 2008

Thai styles and P.S from Chennai

Well............., haven't posted for a while! update
Now in Ko Phan Ngan
Have met my good friends Cat and Cam after they overlanded from Vietnam- we hooked up in Bangkok and Thai style adventures thereby began! Starting with a circuit tour of Bangkok riding the river taxi, skytrain and canal taxi, tuk-tuk and regular taxis we did a loop down the river to Taksin bridge, enjoying the riverside temples, water traffic and adjacent buildings-see many different sides of bangkok from the ferry. Took the skytrain up to Siam- commercial shopping district- all AC, flashy aluminium and cement, subliminal messaging 'buy'buy'buy!' swirling all around us. Walked to Jim thompsons house where cam an cat got their taste of traditional thai art and architecture, b4 canal boating it up to Wat Saket for a nice view over the city from this peaceful oasis with its tall golden bell-shaped stupa in the heart of the frenetic city. A taxi back to our hotel in time for us to get to the station for our onight train to the south of thailand- Suan Mokkh temple- which i was keen to introduce to my friends.
2 nights in the temple was a surreal experience of peace and serenity enjoyed by both me and my friends. The essential validity and rational, verifiable nature of Dhamma were the themes of our chats, while we spent much time quietly absorbing the peaceful atmosphere of this natural paradise. Next we headed for the tropical island of Ko phan Ngan.
have been here for a week now and it has slipped past rapidly- exploring the island by bicycle or motorbike most days- visiting many beautiful beaches, watching sunsets, visitng offshore islands, snorkelling amonst dozens of fish species and colorfully diverse underwater coral gardens, scrambling up rocky cliff faces to explore and take exhilirating bathes in 5 different waterfalls, climbing up through lush jungle to find the awesome views over the jungled hills, coconut valleys, sparkilng beaches and vast waters beyond. Cycling over the hilly terrain and sometimes very rough, steep roads has been challenging at times but there has always been a rewarding view or thrilling downhill descent to more than compensate. No full moon party at this time- gladly i'd say- a visit to the main town (Hat Rin) where the party happend left me puzzled as to why folks would come to a paradisical island and choose to stay in a crowded, noisy and dirty mini-city.
Also while here i met many kind and interesting people- fellow travellers in our bunglaows- great for a chat, a charming host who never ceased to accomodate and a thai woman from bangkok who taught me how diverse people in Thailand are. Today will head back to mainland to rejoin my friends after we parted for the last couple of days- meeting at khao Sok national park- deep jungle with a lake and much wildlife to boot, and from there we still have 3 more island getaways planned plus a trip across to Malaysia should should be plenty more to write about!

a couple of weeks ago i purchased a new touring bicycle in Bangkok- with all the kit and tools etc. needed for many future pedal-powered trips overland through SE Asia and beyond. I can hardly imagine a more fulfilling way to spend time so these are exciting prospects. I have been taking this bike with me along the way during this trip to the south- when travelling with non-pedalling friends sometimes it is useful as a short-trip connector while other times its a bit of a dead weight to carry along and a pain to get into buses (the old ones with roof racks are OK!). Anyway i am becoming acquainted with a metallic friend with whom i plan many future adventures.

Post script on Chennai- in last post i neglected to mention some interesting anecdotes from my 1st day surveying the town. After catching the end of 3rd test cricket (Indians happy) headed out to see a scottish presbyterian church- St Andrews- dating from 1835 and massive in size, large columns, 65m towering spire, white stone- beside the graceful Victorian-style Egmore train station.
From there walked SW to the State museum which i paid a quick visit to see many large, ornate, beautiful hindu statues from the pallava-era temples 1000+ years old, and many priceless bronze figurines from centuries past, housed in a marone-coloured british era sprawling complex.
Walking out of there was suddenly approached by a well-spoken mid-age gent in well-dressed but in worn clothes. He quickly engaged me in conversation and was well-informed on how tourists often interpret Indian culture, problems we see and reactions etc- impressed me with his perceptiveness. Later he told his story about how he lives in a refugee camp for Sri Lankans and how he was forced out of Sri Lanka when the Tamil tigers tried to recruit his family (christians) into their ranks, and how hed come to Chennai to find work but couldnt get a job because he didnt have the 'favour money' to pay the recruiters. Though he had a quick explantion for all my inquiries, i didnt quite buy the story- and the way he seemed to be waiting for me outside the museum - Anyway i gave him 50 rupees for his engaging conversation. A few moments after i met that guy, a flashy black Yank-tank style flashy new black truck brushed past me as i walked on the side on the road- no traffic in oppositie direction- so i gave the truck a tap-tap to let the driver know he come a bit close for comfort. a few seconds later the car pulled over and i looked across to the driver getting out with a questioning gaze- while this light skinned, hairy, stocky fellow marched straight up to me and started pointing and yelling in my face- don't touch my car- why you touch my car!@. WOW this guy is surely sensitive about his vehicle! Seemingly he was trying to appear tough for his wife waiting in the car- but i was to have none of this and told him he came too close and his car could handle a little tap. When he pushed me in the chest i threw down my bag, eyes flashing with thoughts of the danger he was in, i was ready for fisticuffs- which he apparently didn't expect and started to back down. What an arrogant, proud fool- his flashy black truck symbolised his elitist style arrogance brought on from wealth. I guess he assumed that as a foreigner i would shy away in unfamiliar territory- after i didnt back down he even threatened to call the police which i thought was bizarre as he was clearly the original agressor. He told me to leave but i waited for my chosen moment and wandered off unconcerned. My Sri Lankan friend joined me for a drink after this incident and we agreed it was likely a symptom of superiority complex of indias higher castes.
Hope all are doing well and contentedly
PEACE

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