So after 12 hours on the train, i awoke to a different countryside out the train window- flat and brown, relatively dry, it became lusher as we approached the coast. Once in Chennai i took the buses straight for Mamallapuram- sight of a traditional dance festival, ancient temples and sandy beaches- 60kmks south of Chennai.
The temples- the smooth and lifelike contours of their carvings and human and animal statues- were awesome when i considered that they had stood for a whole 1300+ years. A massive wall frescoe carved into sandstone and featuring dancing, praying, meditating figures, naga queens (bit like mermaids), elephants shrines and battle scenes- known as Arjunas penance- was particularly spectacular- and was also the site of the nightly traditional dance performances- featuring different types of south indian dance- group and solo performances of men and women- often brighly, beautifully dressed with jewellery and made up- graceful circular motions of arms, legs and body, accompanied by strking facial expressions, well acted and performed, their fast foot movement accentuated by anklet bells. Memorable performances included a rendition of Vishnus 10 incarnations and a 'tiger dance' of 3 men who painted in the colours of tigers, and seemed to take on of the spirit of the big cats in their movements.
A rocky hill in the centre of town appreaed as a hive of ancient relics- with worshipping halls cut out of sheer rock, temples erected on hilltops- for Krishna, Ganesh and others, a trimutri temple, as well as ponds, steps, notches, a stone throne, massive yoni symobls and animal figures scattered all around the profusion of huge boulders on the irregularly shaped hill. This was the seat and royal capital of the Chola kings who ruled a large portion of southern india during the 6-8th centuries, known as the Pallava period.
It was Ponggal fesitval- a local celebration for family gathering for my first 2 days in Mamallapuram as and as huge crowds of people from Chennai and further afar surged into the town- and i was often a subject for attention- people wanting photos taken, to know where im from- i had become quite used to this and though most were quite polite and friendly- as much as id like to i knew i couldnt become best friends with everyone- trying to make many friendly exchanges without becoming a toy for any locals amusement! It has to be said most were friendly and kind- some families but mostly young guys- they were genuinely interested and would listen to what i had to say. It was a good fun day meeting many peoples. The beach was spectacularly crowded and some guys from Chennai watched by bags while i surfed, eyeing the police who were at this moment foricing everyone out of the water. 1 young guy who had irked a policeman by lingering in the water, ran out of the surf before suffering the indignity of running straight into my shoulder-slowing him down so policeman caught him up and gave him a mighty whack with a stick! Further along a group of factory workers insisted on sharing their bottle of brandy with me and wanted to share more and more!
Another important historical site in the area is known as the 5 rathas. These are 5 worship halls/shrines of varying patterns & designs- carved out of one massive stone hill in dedication to Shiva, Krishna, vishnu, Draupadi (wife of pandavas in Mahabharata) and Ganesha. Shrine exteriors were carved with loving couples, singhas and heavenly beingsThere was also a life sized stone elephant, bull and lions. The guardian stones, and elegantly protuding roof ridges, patterned with many miniature shrines and cylindrical shape of one shrine also struck me.
The no.1 temple attraction in town was the Shore temple- right on the waterfront and now protected by a large semi-circular rockwall- this place must have been smashed by the tsunami in dec 2004 and the results of 1300 years of wind, salt and water wear over 1300 years was obvious on the scupltures and carvings. A toweing main shrine to Shiva contained a large blackstone linga and around its interior and exterior walls were carved beautiful images of yogis, devas and heroic figures, while another shrine contained a large reclining vishnu image and the front shrine was for sivas Uma Maheswar incarnation- with baby child. The whole complex was surrounded by a line a stone nandi bull statues on top of the outer wall and new exacavations were revealing 'new' structures such as oval bathing pond with a shrine inside.
so Mamallapuram was a stimulating place for the senses- beauty and grace of dance, feel of the ocean, mind-stimulation at the temple sites and socialisation galore with the celebratory crowds wouldve loved to stay longer but had things to do in Chennai such as city exploring and sending a box home, so after a more quiet morning wandering of the royal hill complex on the 3rd day (Ponggal had finished) in arvo i bussed it back to Chennai and headed for Egmore and the budget accom there. Next two days in Chennai were spent cruising some of the streets, while not neglecting to keep abreat of the unfloding cricket match that locals loved to talk about.
The second day touring chennai was a busy and stimulating, fortunate day- starting off in the fort area- built in 1640 by the British (one of their first Indian settlements) and containing old relics such as Clive's ('of India') house, the fort museum, St marys church (built 1688) and crusing with a young german chap who had just landed in from the airport. Trained it over to Valluvar Kottam- a monument built to this famous historic tamil figure- his writings were all in tamil but i could get a sense of the lessons he preached in the students paintings on that theme that lined the large central hal, and from the stone freizes of scenes from his writings on the main chariot shaped shrine. It struck me that he was a contempary of buddha (wrote his epic shortly after buddha died) , is often shown in meditation posture wearing buddhist style clothes so was perhaps was heavily influenced by the man. Next mission was to visit a hindu temple near the beach- parthasarathy temple a large complex- it was closed but i could see the many towering shrines with gold plated summits over the wall and enjoy the stone carved pillar lining the long entraceway, as well as see the huge pool on eastern side with shrine at centre. From there walked to beach and wandered along the waterfront- watching the buzz of activity down on the very borad beachfront, old buildings (public works, madras university, high court) lining the marina parade and visited 2 prominent memorials for 2 of ther most famous of Tamil Nadus chief ministers- M.G Ramachandran and Perianna who appear from the pictures and relics in their respective musems at the site, to have been highly karismatic and inclusive leaders. 15 million people apparently attended Ramachandrans funeral!
bussed down to the southern end of the beach - to St Thomas basilica- one of only 3 churches in the world built over the tomb of one of jesus apostles. Clean white towering spires, visited the tomb were many active members of local christian community were chanting away, and a little girl read from the bible. A museum of holy relics there was also of interest. St Thomas is said to have arrived in India in 57 AD and preached to locals to convert before dying soon after. I wandered This temple (Kapaleswar) to Shiva was similar to the previous temple i visited earlier in the day in plan, but this temple was open and playing host to a huge crowd of worshippers as a ceremonial procession and washing of the central Shiva image was taking place around the circular courtyard. I flowed with the people for a few rounds of the temple- also admiring the colourfully painted and detailed carvings of gods & associated animals on most of the surface area of the many structures in the complex- and how this colorfully fresh paint contrasted with the bare black carved stone revealed in lower portions of the central shrine. The devotion of many of the observers was obvious as they held hands together and hummed holy verses 'om nama shivaya'. Elated from this experience i wandered further east- and found a temple (math) to ramakrishna- with his universalist philosophy- ramakhrishna was the guru of vivekanda and both are held in high regard here. I joined the meditation/chanting session going on in the 'universal temple' for a short while before buying a bunch of related books in the well stocked shop. It seemed from the many, most well-dressed people at the temple and in meditation that this new (& peaceful, ecumenial) school of hindu philosophy had gained a certain popularity with emerging middle classes in chennai. I departed the ramakrishna math with an even greater sense of elated serenity, in time to catch 2 buses back from this very old and sacred part of Chennai, Mylapore, to my hotel area.
I still had shopping to do and a box to send on my last half-day in Chennai- and for this i headed (with german friend in tow) to the Pondy bazaar area- where an array of clothing, silks and jewellery shops lined the wide roads for several kms- i did my best to pick out a few things amongst the cacophony of various items for purchase- getting alot of fabric, silk and some clothing before heading to the tamil nadu handicraft centre- but this place works on a high profit that didnt suit me so i moved on. Hurried to send a 20kg box home and pack b4 training to the aiport 4 my flight to Kolkata- pleasant chat with a very funny irish couple on the flight.
Found a small hotel just outside the airport in Kolkata for the flying visit. Took dinner with a view watching planes take off & land and reflected on my trip to India. Walking around the run down areas outside the airport, i found myself taking a fresh, more compassionate view of the locals- hunched over in circles, chatting by the roadsides- realising once again (after having forgotten this when choosing to interpret features of indian society in a negative way- perhaps adopting some of the convenient self-elevating imperialistic assumpitons in the process) that these people are humans, with the same needs & hopes as the rest of us- and deserve basic dignity and help to overcome their limitations. It had been a challenging and memorable 2.5 months in India and Nepal and so much to reflect on it can hardly all sink immeaditely but will take time- glad i have this blog record also. now im back in Thailand and travel is at a more relaxed pace- in a couple of days time i will meet my mates cat and cam in Bangkok and head to the south and to malaysia where i expect more adventurous activities will resume! see you then!
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