Hello Friends
hope all are well
now im back in Nepal's 2nd city- Pokhara- about 200kms west (or a 9 hour bus ride) of the capital Kathmandu.
last evening i arrived in town returning from the ong trekking journeys around the Anapurna mountain range. Wow, how to describe this- words hardly seem sufficient to capture the many elements to the experience. It was physically, visually, culturally, environmentally, and emotionally challenging and stimulating. Each day i would walk 20-30kms (6-8 hours) with my 15kg pack- someimtes gaining up to 2000m in altitiude in one day. Most people take 18+ days to complete the trek but i did it in 13. My legs, feet and back are painfully strained, my lips were parched by the cold, my face burned by the sun, rashes grew between my toes, i sweated litres and went days without a shower, but after all i feel great- it's definately been more than worth it.
Among others, highlights included a 2-day side trip to the worlds highest lake- lake Tilcho (4920m), and climbing over a 5430m high snow covered pass in -15 degree temperatures. Despite the cold, incl. freezing nights- could not have expected more from the weather for the entire time- with perfect clear blue skies everyday, (need not have lugged the rainjacket!), and the mountain views were consistently jaw-drop stunning.
Nepal is like a country pushed together and folded into a size smaller than it deserves, with a land surface area far grater than it appears on a map. This means that hugely varying forms of geographical and ecological environments exist in relatively smaller areas, and this trek, in one of Nepals most richly diverse natural environments, took full advantage of this particular feature of Nepal. Over the journey i was able to pass through wildly various forms of terrain from densely populated green river valleys, up to dry temperate forests, over a snow-covered pass to parched brown & yellow high altitude deserts, down to tropical rainforest before up to another apline forest at 3000m and finally down again through terraced villages and jungle. Passed through many various and culturally distinct tribal areas- including Nepali, Gurung, Tibetan and Thakali- each with different languages, livelihoods, spiritual beliefs, architecture and appearances.
Scenery included many high waterfalls, sheer ice covered cliff faces, clear blue mountain lakes, towering glacier covered peaks (many over 6000m high), rumbling rivers, wide mountain valleys, lush jungles, rainforest and rare high altitude wildlife- birds and mammals, dodging many tamer forms of wildlife along the track- livestock (cows, yaks, goats, buffaloes, sheep, chickens, ducks etc.) , donkeys (colourfully decorated in convoys), mules, horses, dogs, heavily laden porters carrying everything including the kitchen sink, and others.
Each day would sleep in villages guesthouses along the way, eating only breakfast and dinner, trekking, drinking only mountain water from numerous streams, arrive to a village- explore, taking photos, then eat, pack, sometimes shower then sleep, often fitfully as my body struggled to adjust to the high altitudes.
It was wonderful to get a taste of Tibetan life, geography and culture in the highest and driest mountain valleys of Manang and Manthang during the middle of the trek. The Buddhist faith of these people was prominent in the elaborate, clourful and often ancient temples, numerous prayer wheels, sacred stones and general calm demeanour of the people. Pictures of the Dalai lama often on display. Manthang, the driest and seemingly least hospitable of these regions has been settled for almost 3000 years by the Tibetans ancestors- as a visit to the local cultural musum revealed.
Along the way i walked, dined and chatted with many peoples- Nepali guides from Kathmandu, Tibetan women hefting firewood, Chinese, Israeli, French, Austrian, Kiwi, Czech, Yank and fellow Aussie tourists. They came in all ages and travelling styles- big tour groups, couples, friends and other independents- some looking for physical adventure challenge- while others still looking for some pampering in the isolated mountains. But mostly i walked on my own- going at my own speed, and saving my breath to greet with the friendly locals. Had a few path crossings with local Maoist cadres too.
The route was clearly a well-trodden tourist path, in the beginning it seemed difficult to have real interactions with locals who have grown to depend on the tourist dollar and who maybe had become jaded with the tourist hordes- but i should have expected this from the start. The self-interested atmosphere also seemed to lessen as i reached the higher, Tibetan areas.
Other prominent memories include a midnight hot spring session, staring up at the stars in Tatopani and a few scarce moments of calmly contented meditation such as at the pass of Throung La, the summit of this trekking mission. So many experiences to remember and cherish, but the awesome and varied physical terrain such like i had never before experienced, and the local peoples, their challenging livelihoods and deep cultural beliefs are what i feel will really stay with me.
Today enjoyed a kayak circuit around Fewa lake- nepals 2nd largest lake that Pokhara sits on the shores of. Its just across the calm lake from the chaos of Pokhara city to the peace and quiet of rural villages, and chirping birds, hooting monkeys of lakeside forests.
Next will be up another hilltop for sunrise tomorrow, then on to Kathmandu the following day where i will cycle through the chaotic city to visit the many sites, and i still have Chitwan national park and Lumbini (Buddhas birthplace) to look forward to in Nepal too!
Peace and love to all friends and family
Callum

Now in Pokhara, Nepal, bout to set off on a two-week trekking journey around the Anapurna mountain range, a distance of 200km or so.
Nepal is beautiful and a contrast to India in many ways.
After departing Patna, i took an overnight bus to the bordertown, Raxaoul. This was some experience in itself.
A short way into the journey while still on well-lit highways, i noticed while in a half asleep stupor only darkness where light from our headlights should have been shining. I thought little of it-perhaps the driver was saving battery on the lighted road?
Later i woke again and we were driving in complete blackness and i started to get worried. It was a moonless night and we were careening along at 80kmph on a rough, very busy 1.5 lane 2 way road only by the rear light on cars (mostly trucks) in front. When the trucks in front turned off we pulled over half off the road by the light of the attendants torch. Everytime (every few seconds) a vehicle went past in the opposite direction our drivers tactic was to swerve into their driving line and headlight view with moments to spare so they could know we were there and therefore not drive straight into us once past the truck in front. I was figuring that my odds of becoming one of the 1000s of Indian road casualties were now getting high.
After we finally stopped (5 hours after the lights failed), I had well-spoken Indian teenage fellow passengers explaining to me the 'uncivilised' nature of most Biharis as reason for their meek acceptance of the shadow bus as night-time transportation. Apparently we were going to change bus to one of the functioning vehicles stationed here, which we eventually did after waiting around for 1.5 hours and when the sun had risen anyway (??). The road for the last 3 hours or so was filled with craters, so no chance of sleep for even the hardiest snoozer. Apparently it is due to a dispute between India and Nepal over maintenance of this road- India claiming that Nepal should pay because the road is primarily used as a route for imported freight goods to Nepal. The state of the road is testament to both governments disrespect for the many 000s of local peoples who neddlessly suffer the pain, expense and inconvenience of such a shocking road. Someone should organise a protest.
Crossing to Nepal was a matter of negotiating bribe hungry officials on both sides of the border. Needless to say i risked serious delay by not paying a penny- to discourage this greedy extortion.
Found a bus to my planned destination Pokhara. This ($5AUD, 9 hour) local bus journey felt like paradise compared to the last. The views of distant mountains and river valleys along the way were captivating. The inspiring diversity of Nepal- both geographically and ethnically was obvious. i also noticed the greater visibility of women here compared to India (at least where i was in Bihar state, which is one of the poorest and most backward in India) , less conservatively covered and smiling more. Even noticed a boyish looking female bus freight loader atop a bus roof! This contrasted to the oppressive atmosphere i had experienced in Bihar (at least partly due to some culture shock!). Dancing brightly dressed ethnic minority girls whirled seductively on the sides of roads while circled by appreciative crowds of locals.
Only downside was a sense of foreboding developing with me. My stomach was beginning to feel like a putrid concoction filled cauldron, bubbling and waiting to boil over violently at any moment.
At least it waited until Pokhara, were we arrived a couple of hours after dusk. found a cheap room ($2AUD with private bathroom). Was up all night with explosive dysyntery, fever and vomiting. the antibiotics i had bought in anticipation at the bordertown seemed to have no effect.
Felt very weak, so slept in, but knew i had to make use of my first full day in Nepal. Visited pharmacy for some more drugs before setting out to discover the town. Rented a bicycle (i felt a bit unsteady walking), and rode to 2 hindu temples, down to the dam of the local lake (Phewa Tal, 2nd largest in Nepal), to a waterfall that disappears underground, before mustering the energy to climb a large hill, through a dark forest, to the World Peace Pagoda to get a wonderful view across the lake, city and distant mountains. Returned to hotel and fell asleep without eating lunch or dinner, exhausted. This morning prepped for long trek in the mountains, praying that soon my stomach could return to close to normal functioning, though it had barely improved the night before.
Will write again with reports from the long walk through the mountains- could be a while cause i doubt theres internet up there!

Been a busy 30 hours or so since i last wrote and frenetic India is some change from the relaxed atmosphere of Thailand. after spending 8 hours hanging out in airports yesterday, finally descended down towards the city of Patna in North-eastern India, staring out the airplane into the night air, dumbstruck by the intense, fiery bursts of blue, green, yellow, gold and red fireworks exploding through the enitre city laid out before my eyes. It seems as if a war was on, but instead it was Deepavali, festival of lights. This festival Celebrates the victory of the epic hero Rama over his demonic adversary Ravana in the world famous and one of the most ancient known good vs. evil stories in the world, the Ramayana. After locating accomodation, I ventured into the streets to discover the sources of the blasts and found peoples consumed with devotional activities as well as their unleashing of fireworks. I was rapidly subsumed in a crowd after attempting conversation with one particularly jolly looking fellow. Mine and the crowds language abilities did not overlap, our comunication was limited. Suddenly, a middle aged half-drunken looking unshaven man grabbed me by the head, leaned foward and kissed me full on the cheek. I burst out laughing. This was something of an icebreaker. Soon i was being fed the ceremonial lentil meal and joining in devotional activities in front of Rama, Sita and Ravana effigies, being shown around, shaking dozens of hands, people suggesting good photo angles, anxious to take me this way or that. After a while i tore myself away from the crowds and found a modest looking restaurant, though suprised by its dark interior, i wasn't at all prepared for what was to come. Still on a gentle high from the festivities, i mildly concurred when the manager insisted i order extra dishes for 'gravy'. This was a mistake. The food seemed to take hours to come and i began chatting to some fellow diners. The 3rd fellow i spoke kept bluntly insisting i go to his house, despite my polite declinations and i became slightly perturbed. He was explaining the vast and unequivocal superiority of Australia to India and i found myself in the unusual position of suggesting he have more nationalistic appreication of his nations vast history and culture. And he kept babbling to me in Hindi although he knew i couldnt understand. My friendliness was getting me nowhere. In the end the manager had to split us up, and when i made to go outside to escape the oppressive restaurant atmosphere & observe the fireworks, there was a general panic among staff who perhaps assumed i was leaving without taking my food. they viturally tried to wrestle me back inside and seemed dead at ears to my reasonable appeals that i simply wanted step out for a moment. I finally raised my voice at them (disturbed by their instrusion upon my basic personal freedoms) and then the way magically parted so i stepped out. While outside i noticed something i hadn't seen before in three previous trips to India, two of the female waitresses, retiring upstairs with a couple of diners. It seemed our insistent restaurant manager was also a pimp. when the food finally came i feasted, the edgy waiters approaching me ever couple of minutes to see there was nothing i needed. The bill was excessive but i paid and was happy to be out of the place, with some curry packed away for brekky. Why couldn't thse guys relax, or open their ears for a second. i thought. The next day (today) has been spent touring the town of Patna with a lost & confused auto-rickshaw driver, visiting a sacred Sikh temple, climbing an 18th centrury granary for a view over town, glimpsing the ruins of an ancient buddhist city, joining Deepavali devotees in the citys main Hindu temple. My friedliness with locals seemed to be interpreted as a opening for cash and had to be tough again rashly parting from some of my new 'friends' who insistently tried to lead me around. At last the kids seemed to appreictae my attempts at warmth. I really need to improve my Hindi. with a i declined two offers of entry to a musuem and archaeological park, entry fees marked up 2000% and 5000% over the Indian price- too much for a budget travelling student like me. Whatever happened to the idea that history and culture should be free (or close to it) for all humanity to learn of & enjoy? As you can probly tell, i'm still adjusting to India, high & lows, but tomorrow Nepal is waiting and i expect it to be different again, at least in places outside Kathmandu be in touch again soon Callum

Subcontinent adventures begin!

Hello Peoples
Now sitting in kolkata airport, India, with some time to kill before a flight on the way to Nepal so thought i would put the time to use and set up a blog for this 4 month long trip i recently started. Good way to apply notes and observations of the trip, preserve the usual bizzare travel anecdotes
Should be awesome- soon will be up in the himalayas trekking for 2 weeks + around the Anarpurna peaks in Nepal.
I usually like to travel on the adventurous side so hope it won't be too dull and i should still be able to make it back home in one piece (perhaps)
Now just adjusting to the head-wobbling yes/no/maybe Indian communication methods and the buzzing atmosphere, bustling crowds and pitiful beggars of India.
fly to Patna (ancient capital of Buddhist kingdom) this afternoon for 1-2 days before heading stright to Pokhara in Nepal to get stuck (hopefully not literally) into this trek up to 5500m before the winter sets in!
After that will have a few more weeks touring Nepal before traversing the Indian subcontinent from north to south- visitng lots of ancient wonders (incl. 7 x world cultural heritage sites!) along the way, like Khajuraho caves, Sanchi buddhist stupa, 10th century Ajanta and Ellora caves Mumbai, Hampi, Kerala and Mahabalipuram (quite a toungue twister!)
22nd jan fly back to SE Asia until 3rd march for some more conventional adventures in sarawak southern thailand and other exotic places yet to be decided
Will try to get some photos uploaded to as a visual accompaniment
Allright friends, hope your all continually blessed by good fortune and i'll be in touch again soon!