So after 12 hours on the train, i awoke to a different countryside out the train window- flat and brown, relatively dry, it became lusher as we approached the coast. Once in Chennai i took the buses straight for Mamallapuram- sight of a traditional dance festival, ancient temples and sandy beaches- 60kmks south of Chennai.
The temples- the smooth and lifelike contours of their carvings and human and animal statues- were awesome when i considered that they had stood for a whole 1300+ years. A massive wall frescoe carved into sandstone and featuring dancing, praying, meditating figures, naga queens (bit like mermaids), elephants shrines and battle scenes- known as Arjunas penance- was particularly spectacular- and was also the site of the nightly traditional dance performances- featuring different types of south indian dance- group and solo performances of men and women- often brighly, beautifully dressed with jewellery and made up- graceful circular motions of arms, legs and body, accompanied by strking facial expressions, well acted and performed, their fast foot movement accentuated by anklet bells. Memorable performances included a rendition of Vishnus 10 incarnations and a 'tiger dance' of 3 men who painted in the colours of tigers, and seemed to take on of the spirit of the big cats in their movements.
A rocky hill in the centre of town appreaed as a hive of ancient relics- with worshipping halls cut out of sheer rock, temples erected on hilltops- for Krishna, Ganesh and others, a trimutri temple, as well as ponds, steps, notches, a stone throne, massive yoni symobls and animal figures scattered all around the profusion of huge boulders on the irregularly shaped hill. This was the seat and royal capital of the Chola kings who ruled a large portion of southern india during the 6-8th centuries, known as the Pallava period.
It was Ponggal fesitval- a local celebration for family gathering for my first 2 days in Mamallapuram as and as huge crowds of people from Chennai and further afar surged into the town- and i was often a subject for attention- people wanting photos taken, to know where im from- i had become quite used to this and though most were quite polite and friendly- as much as id like to i knew i couldnt become best friends with everyone- trying to make many friendly exchanges without becoming a toy for any locals amusement! It has to be said most were friendly and kind- some families but mostly young guys- they were genuinely interested and would listen to what i had to say. It was a good fun day meeting many peoples. The beach was spectacularly crowded and some guys from Chennai watched by bags while i surfed, eyeing the police who were at this moment foricing everyone out of the water. 1 young guy who had irked a policeman by lingering in the water, ran out of the surf before suffering the indignity of running straight into my shoulder-slowing him down so policeman caught him up and gave him a mighty whack with a stick! Further along a group of factory workers insisted on sharing their bottle of brandy with me and wanted to share more and more!
Another important historical site in the area is known as the 5 rathas. These are 5 worship halls/shrines of varying patterns & designs- carved out of one massive stone hill in dedication to Shiva, Krishna, vishnu, Draupadi (wife of pandavas in Mahabharata) and Ganesha. Shrine exteriors were carved with loving couples, singhas and heavenly beingsThere was also a life sized stone elephant, bull and lions. The guardian stones, and elegantly protuding roof ridges, patterned with many miniature shrines and cylindrical shape of one shrine also struck me.
The no.1 temple attraction in town was the Shore temple- right on the waterfront and now protected by a large semi-circular rockwall- this place must have been smashed by the tsunami in dec 2004 and the results of 1300 years of wind, salt and water wear over 1300 years was obvious on the scupltures and carvings. A toweing main shrine to Shiva contained a large blackstone linga and around its interior and exterior walls were carved beautiful images of yogis, devas and heroic figures, while another shrine contained a large reclining vishnu image and the front shrine was for sivas Uma Maheswar incarnation- with baby child. The whole complex was surrounded by a line a stone nandi bull statues on top of the outer wall and new exacavations were revealing 'new' structures such as oval bathing pond with a shrine inside.
so Mamallapuram was a stimulating place for the senses- beauty and grace of dance, feel of the ocean, mind-stimulation at the temple sites and socialisation galore with the celebratory crowds wouldve loved to stay longer but had things to do in Chennai such as city exploring and sending a box home, so after a more quiet morning wandering of the royal hill complex on the 3rd day (Ponggal had finished) in arvo i bussed it back to Chennai and headed for Egmore and the budget accom there. Next two days in Chennai were spent cruising some of the streets, while not neglecting to keep abreat of the unfloding cricket match that locals loved to talk about.
The second day touring chennai was a busy and stimulating, fortunate day- starting off in the fort area- built in 1640 by the British (one of their first Indian settlements) and containing old relics such as Clive's ('of India') house, the fort museum, St marys church (built 1688) and crusing with a young german chap who had just landed in from the airport. Trained it over to Valluvar Kottam- a monument built to this famous historic tamil figure- his writings were all in tamil but i could get a sense of the lessons he preached in the students paintings on that theme that lined the large central hal, and from the stone freizes of scenes from his writings on the main chariot shaped shrine. It struck me that he was a contempary of buddha (wrote his epic shortly after buddha died) , is often shown in meditation posture wearing buddhist style clothes so was perhaps was heavily influenced by the man. Next mission was to visit a hindu temple near the beach- parthasarathy temple a large complex- it was closed but i could see the many towering shrines with gold plated summits over the wall and enjoy the stone carved pillar lining the long entraceway, as well as see the huge pool on eastern side with shrine at centre. From there walked to beach and wandered along the waterfront- watching the buzz of activity down on the very borad beachfront, old buildings (public works, madras university, high court) lining the marina parade and visited 2 prominent memorials for 2 of ther most famous of Tamil Nadus chief ministers- M.G Ramachandran and Perianna who appear from the pictures and relics in their respective musems at the site, to have been highly karismatic and inclusive leaders. 15 million people apparently attended Ramachandrans funeral!
bussed down to the southern end of the beach - to St Thomas basilica- one of only 3 churches in the world built over the tomb of one of jesus apostles. Clean white towering spires, visited the tomb were many active members of local christian community were chanting away, and a little girl read from the bible. A museum of holy relics there was also of interest. St Thomas is said to have arrived in India in 57 AD and preached to locals to convert before dying soon after. I wandered This temple (Kapaleswar) to Shiva was similar to the previous temple i visited earlier in the day in plan, but this temple was open and playing host to a huge crowd of worshippers as a ceremonial procession and washing of the central Shiva image was taking place around the circular courtyard. I flowed with the people for a few rounds of the temple- also admiring the colourfully painted and detailed carvings of gods & associated animals on most of the surface area of the many structures in the complex- and how this colorfully fresh paint contrasted with the bare black carved stone revealed in lower portions of the central shrine. The devotion of many of the observers was obvious as they held hands together and hummed holy verses 'om nama shivaya'. Elated from this experience i wandered further east- and found a temple (math) to ramakrishna- with his universalist philosophy- ramakhrishna was the guru of vivekanda and both are held in high regard here. I joined the meditation/chanting session going on in the 'universal temple' for a short while before buying a bunch of related books in the well stocked shop. It seemed from the many, most well-dressed people at the temple and in meditation that this new (& peaceful, ecumenial) school of hindu philosophy had gained a certain popularity with emerging middle classes in chennai. I departed the ramakrishna math with an even greater sense of elated serenity, in time to catch 2 buses back from this very old and sacred part of Chennai, Mylapore, to my hotel area.
I still had shopping to do and a box to send on my last half-day in Chennai- and for this i headed (with german friend in tow) to the Pondy bazaar area- where an array of clothing, silks and jewellery shops lined the wide roads for several kms- i did my best to pick out a few things amongst the cacophony of various items for purchase- getting alot of fabric, silk and some clothing before heading to the tamil nadu handicraft centre- but this place works on a high profit that didnt suit me so i moved on. Hurried to send a 20kg box home and pack b4 training to the aiport 4 my flight to Kolkata- pleasant chat with a very funny irish couple on the flight.
Found a small hotel just outside the airport in Kolkata for the flying visit. Took dinner with a view watching planes take off & land and reflected on my trip to India. Walking around the run down areas outside the airport, i found myself taking a fresh, more compassionate view of the locals- hunched over in circles, chatting by the roadsides- realising once again (after having forgotten this when choosing to interpret features of indian society in a negative way- perhaps adopting some of the convenient self-elevating imperialistic assumpitons in the process) that these people are humans, with the same needs & hopes as the rest of us- and deserve basic dignity and help to overcome their limitations. It had been a challenging and memorable 2.5 months in India and Nepal and so much to reflect on it can hardly all sink immeaditely but will take time- glad i have this blog record also. now im back in Thailand and travel is at a more relaxed pace- in a couple of days time i will meet my mates cat and cam in Bangkok and head to the south and to malaysia where i expect more adventurous activities will resume! see you then!
Monday, January 21, 2008
Friday, January 18, 2008
Ahhh, Kerala, Kerala, the paradise of India, now in Chennai, im missing it already.
So for some reminisces of that coastal state-
The roads were wonderful (public transport- buses, trains, ferries- worked a treat), the environment so green and welcoming, water, water everywhere, yummy seafood and spicy dosas for food. The combo of commie government and many churches often reminded me of the strongly defensible catchphrase 'jesus was a socialist'
From Kollam i decdied to change plans and take a detour south to the Southern tip of India- Kanyakumari- in Tamil Nadu state. Time was limited so one night and a half day visit there followed by a flying visit to the ancient Padmanabhapuram palace of Travancore (Keralas old name) en route to a beach resort town i wanted to see- Varkala.
In Kanyakumari, now a thriving tourist hub- mostly for locals- In this town, apart from the auspicious location where Bay of bengal, Arabian sea and Indian ocean meet, there is a sacred temple (shirts must be off in the shady interior of this black rock edifice- i joined the sweaty queues feeling many stares making me strangely self concious of my bare white chest after so long dressing conservatively in India) to shiva, two small offshore islands with large monuments upon them which the tourists pack into small ferries to visit- one monument is a newish temple to honour the famous Swami Vivekanda- brilliant holy man who also promoted communal peace and Indian nationalism at end of 19th century, another is for the Tamil poet of the anceint age saint Tiruvallur who apparently preached a message of wisdom, peace and prosperity in his writings with much relevance for the modern age. Other attractions in Kayakumari are a Gandhi memorial building and an exhibition hall detailing the extensive travels and discoveries of Swami Vivekanda, not to mention smaller shrines, bathing ghats and a prominent church of two. So it was a hurries half day or so- but well worth the trip down to see a side of Indian history and culture (Vivekanda, Gandhi) that had shaped my perceptions of the place (tolerance, diversity, wisdom, insight, peace), being honoured as i thought it should be- just enough time for a few minutes meditation in the room dedicated to this purpose at the Swamis offshore temple- hardly easy though with the crowds of local tourists milling in the meditation hall and chattering noisily (perhaps they should start teaching meditation in the schools here- i got it in mine in Lismore NSW!) - Swami Vivekanda was a native Indian Sannayasin (dedicated to holy life) who toured the country searching for enlightenment and preaching inter-communal peace. Also famous for being Hinduisms eloquent representative at the world parliament of the religions in Chicago at the end of the 19th century, he is a popular nationalist figure now due to his early prominence in calling for Indian self-respect and unity against the british colonisers.
In the afternoon i caught the bus to a town near the Tamil Nadu - Kerala border where i wanted to see the padmanabhapuram palace. This large palace- fully occupying 6 acres (an island of Kerala inm Tamil Nadu) with its many varied buildings, was all of wood except for a stone temple inside its walls, made of of long vaulted corridors, a four story tower, elegant bedrooms, entertaining areas dining and meeting rooms- it was full of equsite wood carving & sculpture- on ceilings, pillars and cornices, over doorways and like the other palace i had visited was cleverly designed to stay cool- keep out the sun while carrying the breeze through its interior. Tiled roofs and manicured gardens, ponds, ponds added to its attraxctive features. from the palace i plodded on for 2 more public bus journeys and 4 hours later to Varkala beach via thiruvanthapuram and i was looking forward to chilling out- but only for a day! Varkala has a nice golden sandy beach backed by cliffs lined with tourist facilities. It hasn't been overdeveloped with large hotels like some other places in Kerala (Kovalam) and still the quiet and peaceful, rustic atmosphere of a popular backpacker retreat- i liked it. Took time to wander the length of the beach and waterfront shops, restaurants, go for several swims in the refreshing surf and also to vist the local temple which is a popular pilgrimage spot. The next morning though i had a train to catch early to reach Kollam for the morning ferry to Allephi- joined other tourists- mostly middle-aged Europeans for this very popular 90kms cruise through the alluring backwaters that wind their way up through Kerala paralell to the coast, often separated from the sea by only a few dunes, other times 100km distant. Through a series of large canals and lakes, lined with green & golden leaved palms, the placid waters hold many fish, attested to by the huge nets that often lined the waters, later we reached a narrower canal and got a closer look at the lifestyles of the people by the waters edge. Stopped briefly at the famous 'hugging mother' asharam of amarathadevi- a group of huge towering residential blocks coloured in bright pink- this is a popular stop-off and staying point for many foreign tourists who line up for long hours to be issued tickets to be hugged by this very energetic woman, who preaches love for god and love/compassion in life. Maybe next time ill stop by- though i chatted to 3 Russian fellow travellers who boarded the boat after staying there overnight who felt it was all a bit too much and a little cheesy. They were also loyal to the buddhist faith which they had learnt and adopted on previous trips to India- which maybe made them a bit cynical of claims of and all the fuss around this womans 'healing hugs' (everyone wants a quick fix!). It was great talking to them about Buddhism and they inspired me with the disciplined dedication- one lady from Moscow had completed 90,000 ritual prostrations (100 per day)- a practice which is said (So thats what those westerners lying flat and circling the main shrine at sarnath were all about!) to purify the mind, destroy pride and bad habit. From the clear spark in their eyes, their healthy, bright appearance and positive expressiveness- it seemed the practice was working. Late in the day we appropriately passed an historic buddha image discovered in this area- a rare find- housed in a small stupa roof by the canalbank. After a long and enjoyable day soaking in the attractive greenery and waterside life of the backwaters- stayed onight in Allephi (met a rare Chinese traveller there to practice my chinese with) before the next day taking an early morning public ferry (30c ozzie for a 2.5 hr ride!) to Kottyam. I found this trip to be even more enjoyable than the previous day- it felt more local and genuine- being a transport vessel for locals going about their activities. People lived on narrow srips of land surrounded by water on both sides- fishing growing rice, fruit and vegetables in small plots. It was nice to share the fascination at the mesmirising surroundings- swerving fish schools, bright pink lotus flower bunches emerging from the depths, massive water hyancinth crops, wetlands all-coloured white by thousands of fishing herons as well as the insight into the lifestyles, environment, housing of the local people- with a fellow traveller from China- Zhou Jiang- who also enjoyed it. It appeared the locals wandering the banks and going about their faily activities had a certain calm and dignity about them- that in my mind i connected with the effect of watery surroundings- as well as the Kottayam's region reputation for mental achievement- being the 1st district of India to officially achieve 100% literacy.
Reluctantly reached the conclusions of my backwater explorations in Kottayam and transferred for a bus up into the mountains to Kumily- beisde periyar national park. 4+ hours a 110km later- reached this mountain retreat- passing tea & spice plantations, forest and great viewpoints en route. Headed out for a bicycle ride to have a look around the area. Followed my nose aropund the edge of the park to visit some 'tribal villages on the hillside were the locals greeted me warmly and we shared a laugh over our communication difficulties, kept riding around to an area of Spice plantations- a variety of crops such as spices growing on palm species made the spice farms blend right into the forest surroundings as if they were a natural jungle. After i started up a dirt track in one particularly attractive area, a small girl mentioned -this way goes to mountain- so i carried on a bit further- about to turn around- i met a strange looking character- a European looking man-with full beard, dressed in traditional south indian male skirt, caryying a pile of sticks and small cutter beside a house. Turned out he was a French farmer who had lived there for 16 years and he appeared very much at home, quite content in his envoirnment- and i didnt blame him in such a nautrally beautiful place hillside- quiet, green and lush spice forests. He told me the way to the mountaintop so i figured i would continue- and was very glad afterwards that i did. Up along a very narrow path, stepping up stone terraces in the jungle like spice plantations, under palm leaves along a creek bed, eventually coming to some rudimentary huts near the top of the hill- very friendly family there- lady deftly carrying a large bucket balanced on here head- we shared a few smiles and a photo before i contnued up - to be stunned by the paradisical panorama that presented itself to me- mountains and hills rolling into the distance- covered in forst- houses and villagers, towns nestled among the greend hills, the periyar lake snaking its way around in between the hills to the south, larger mountains to the east in Tamil Nadu, a 360 degree view at sunset, the highest peak around, it turned out randomly that this was the best place i could possibly have gotten to for 50kms, i was the only person at the top - a viewing tower to myself-i felt very lucky and meditated in peace and solitude for a few moments as the sun retreat below the distant horizon.
The national park though- gladly having developed along the path of eco-tourism - the authorities had neglected to provide any kind of activities for a budget indpenedant traveller like me- all activities inside the park had to be guided- including walks- and the entry price for foreigners was more and 1000% of the indian price- i felt like id be getting a sterile jungle experience- plus it was a weekend aand full of local tourists so wouldnt be much chgance of quiet 'communion with nature' so i decided to pass on the park itself and di some more exploring around by bicycle instead. Found a forested area and trkked on into the bush after i spotted a group of black langurs (i had first seen these creatures on a cycle to the tribal museum in ooty- that was 1st wild sighting). Folowed the monkeys up a hill through thick forest, saw some other small mammals, birds and got amongst the plants, earth and trees in the diverse and colourful forest- this was a good enough experience of the park for me! Rode on through some more tradtional villagers just ouside the park- seeing the tradtional huts, bamboo set up of homes and got into an argument with an arrogant park warden who was on thin ground when he feigned at threatening me with his rifle. Apparently i was in a restricted area but the gate was wide open - signs in Tamil- when i tried to discuss things with him he acted like he didnt need a reason. I guess this small guy wanted to feel superior (a common disease). Anyway, It was a pleasant afternoon exploring.
The next day i got the bus (2 buses) back to Kochi for my train the next day. Caught up on a couple of sights seeing the inside of the synagoue and admiring the wonderful painted fresoces inside the dutch palace in Matancheerry- including a very suggestive painting of Krishna with 6 arms put to full use with 6 loving gopis. Othwerwise equal emphasis on Siva and Vishnu at this palace. The night i arrived in Kochi i also caught up with a travelling friend- Mukti from Mandu. Meeting up with him at a local temple, there was an unexpected surprise when i wandered for a casual look into the temple grounds after 11pm, when to my amazement an elaborate, colorful and noisy temple ceremony- (more like a festival!) was going on. 7 huge male tusked elephants, colorfully painted with flowers and with gold plated headeress flowng down their trunks, on each sat 3 solemn looking men dressed in white robes and carrying large white tassles of hair and wheel shaped symbols. Ahead of them was an orchestra of painted men in only trousers with drums, flutes, symbols, and long curved trumpets- playing a in a deep, thumping and hynoptic rythm that gradually gained in intensity, with the attendants on elephant back performing standing and circular waving motions with tassles and circular symbols in time to the music beat. There was a pattern to the ceremonies as we circled around the temple and repeated the dose- An annual festival, this had been going on for hours, and continued the following day (i visited again)- with different numbers of elephants according to the stage of the ceremony, and joined by a choir of small children. The music was earthy and mesmirisingly powerful, it seemed to reach in to the insides and shake them into action. This is a way of cleansing the temple each year and scaring away evil spirits. Little notice was taken of the few foreign visitors as we stared on in wonder- ahhh, this is the India that fascinates me!
It was a fun and smooth overnight train to Chennai (though departing 1 hr late). had some interesting chats the following morning with 2 girls moving to Chennai to work for an IT company, and a couple of gents who were returning from the huge pilgramiage to Sabriamala temple. This pilgrimage has massive attendances- 30 million people travelled there over 2 days this year (no kidding!). They go to view a sacred jyorthilingam - a flickering flame that magically appears in a forest clearing every year on a certain day and time- these 2 chaps swore they had seen it every time on their numerous trips to this festival. The legend behind this sacred place surrounds a child born of two male parents (co-incidentally these two men on the train kept talking about both of 'their' son, and women are not allowed on this pilgrimage- geez, what goes on there?) shiva and vishnu- who took a female form in order to give birth to ayappa. There is also a female goddess worshipped at the site who is said to have gained moksha- and risen to the abode of gods- through her penance, dedication to god and chatisty. Are they trying to say that 2 men make good parents? Can't answer this one.
Think this post is long enough already! Could go on with more topics and discussions of travelling in India, the country's imperial legacy & stories of folks ive met, bit ill have to leave it their for now.
Next post i will give the the stories from Mamallapuram and Chennai- though im already passed them and on to Kolkata now! tomorrow off to good old Bangkok- soon will be meeting 2 Melbourne mates and heading to beaches, jungles, so more stories to come there.
Take care and peace be with us friends!
So for some reminisces of that coastal state-
The roads were wonderful (public transport- buses, trains, ferries- worked a treat), the environment so green and welcoming, water, water everywhere, yummy seafood and spicy dosas for food. The combo of commie government and many churches often reminded me of the strongly defensible catchphrase 'jesus was a socialist'
From Kollam i decdied to change plans and take a detour south to the Southern tip of India- Kanyakumari- in Tamil Nadu state. Time was limited so one night and a half day visit there followed by a flying visit to the ancient Padmanabhapuram palace of Travancore (Keralas old name) en route to a beach resort town i wanted to see- Varkala.
In Kanyakumari, now a thriving tourist hub- mostly for locals- In this town, apart from the auspicious location where Bay of bengal, Arabian sea and Indian ocean meet, there is a sacred temple (shirts must be off in the shady interior of this black rock edifice- i joined the sweaty queues feeling many stares making me strangely self concious of my bare white chest after so long dressing conservatively in India) to shiva, two small offshore islands with large monuments upon them which the tourists pack into small ferries to visit- one monument is a newish temple to honour the famous Swami Vivekanda- brilliant holy man who also promoted communal peace and Indian nationalism at end of 19th century, another is for the Tamil poet of the anceint age saint Tiruvallur who apparently preached a message of wisdom, peace and prosperity in his writings with much relevance for the modern age. Other attractions in Kayakumari are a Gandhi memorial building and an exhibition hall detailing the extensive travels and discoveries of Swami Vivekanda, not to mention smaller shrines, bathing ghats and a prominent church of two. So it was a hurries half day or so- but well worth the trip down to see a side of Indian history and culture (Vivekanda, Gandhi) that had shaped my perceptions of the place (tolerance, diversity, wisdom, insight, peace), being honoured as i thought it should be- just enough time for a few minutes meditation in the room dedicated to this purpose at the Swamis offshore temple- hardly easy though with the crowds of local tourists milling in the meditation hall and chattering noisily (perhaps they should start teaching meditation in the schools here- i got it in mine in Lismore NSW!) - Swami Vivekanda was a native Indian Sannayasin (dedicated to holy life) who toured the country searching for enlightenment and preaching inter-communal peace. Also famous for being Hinduisms eloquent representative at the world parliament of the religions in Chicago at the end of the 19th century, he is a popular nationalist figure now due to his early prominence in calling for Indian self-respect and unity against the british colonisers.
In the afternoon i caught the bus to a town near the Tamil Nadu - Kerala border where i wanted to see the padmanabhapuram palace. This large palace- fully occupying 6 acres (an island of Kerala inm Tamil Nadu) with its many varied buildings, was all of wood except for a stone temple inside its walls, made of of long vaulted corridors, a four story tower, elegant bedrooms, entertaining areas dining and meeting rooms- it was full of equsite wood carving & sculpture- on ceilings, pillars and cornices, over doorways and like the other palace i had visited was cleverly designed to stay cool- keep out the sun while carrying the breeze through its interior. Tiled roofs and manicured gardens, ponds, ponds added to its attraxctive features. from the palace i plodded on for 2 more public bus journeys and 4 hours later to Varkala beach via thiruvanthapuram and i was looking forward to chilling out- but only for a day! Varkala has a nice golden sandy beach backed by cliffs lined with tourist facilities. It hasn't been overdeveloped with large hotels like some other places in Kerala (Kovalam) and still the quiet and peaceful, rustic atmosphere of a popular backpacker retreat- i liked it. Took time to wander the length of the beach and waterfront shops, restaurants, go for several swims in the refreshing surf and also to vist the local temple which is a popular pilgrimage spot. The next morning though i had a train to catch early to reach Kollam for the morning ferry to Allephi- joined other tourists- mostly middle-aged Europeans for this very popular 90kms cruise through the alluring backwaters that wind their way up through Kerala paralell to the coast, often separated from the sea by only a few dunes, other times 100km distant. Through a series of large canals and lakes, lined with green & golden leaved palms, the placid waters hold many fish, attested to by the huge nets that often lined the waters, later we reached a narrower canal and got a closer look at the lifestyles of the people by the waters edge. Stopped briefly at the famous 'hugging mother' asharam of amarathadevi- a group of huge towering residential blocks coloured in bright pink- this is a popular stop-off and staying point for many foreign tourists who line up for long hours to be issued tickets to be hugged by this very energetic woman, who preaches love for god and love/compassion in life. Maybe next time ill stop by- though i chatted to 3 Russian fellow travellers who boarded the boat after staying there overnight who felt it was all a bit too much and a little cheesy. They were also loyal to the buddhist faith which they had learnt and adopted on previous trips to India- which maybe made them a bit cynical of claims of and all the fuss around this womans 'healing hugs' (everyone wants a quick fix!). It was great talking to them about Buddhism and they inspired me with the disciplined dedication- one lady from Moscow had completed 90,000 ritual prostrations (100 per day)- a practice which is said (So thats what those westerners lying flat and circling the main shrine at sarnath were all about!) to purify the mind, destroy pride and bad habit. From the clear spark in their eyes, their healthy, bright appearance and positive expressiveness- it seemed the practice was working. Late in the day we appropriately passed an historic buddha image discovered in this area- a rare find- housed in a small stupa roof by the canalbank. After a long and enjoyable day soaking in the attractive greenery and waterside life of the backwaters- stayed onight in Allephi (met a rare Chinese traveller there to practice my chinese with) before the next day taking an early morning public ferry (30c ozzie for a 2.5 hr ride!) to Kottyam. I found this trip to be even more enjoyable than the previous day- it felt more local and genuine- being a transport vessel for locals going about their activities. People lived on narrow srips of land surrounded by water on both sides- fishing growing rice, fruit and vegetables in small plots. It was nice to share the fascination at the mesmirising surroundings- swerving fish schools, bright pink lotus flower bunches emerging from the depths, massive water hyancinth crops, wetlands all-coloured white by thousands of fishing herons as well as the insight into the lifestyles, environment, housing of the local people- with a fellow traveller from China- Zhou Jiang- who also enjoyed it. It appeared the locals wandering the banks and going about their faily activities had a certain calm and dignity about them- that in my mind i connected with the effect of watery surroundings- as well as the Kottayam's region reputation for mental achievement- being the 1st district of India to officially achieve 100% literacy.
Reluctantly reached the conclusions of my backwater explorations in Kottayam and transferred for a bus up into the mountains to Kumily- beisde periyar national park. 4+ hours a 110km later- reached this mountain retreat- passing tea & spice plantations, forest and great viewpoints en route. Headed out for a bicycle ride to have a look around the area. Followed my nose aropund the edge of the park to visit some 'tribal villages on the hillside were the locals greeted me warmly and we shared a laugh over our communication difficulties, kept riding around to an area of Spice plantations- a variety of crops such as spices growing on palm species made the spice farms blend right into the forest surroundings as if they were a natural jungle. After i started up a dirt track in one particularly attractive area, a small girl mentioned -this way goes to mountain- so i carried on a bit further- about to turn around- i met a strange looking character- a European looking man-with full beard, dressed in traditional south indian male skirt, caryying a pile of sticks and small cutter beside a house. Turned out he was a French farmer who had lived there for 16 years and he appeared very much at home, quite content in his envoirnment- and i didnt blame him in such a nautrally beautiful place hillside- quiet, green and lush spice forests. He told me the way to the mountaintop so i figured i would continue- and was very glad afterwards that i did. Up along a very narrow path, stepping up stone terraces in the jungle like spice plantations, under palm leaves along a creek bed, eventually coming to some rudimentary huts near the top of the hill- very friendly family there- lady deftly carrying a large bucket balanced on here head- we shared a few smiles and a photo before i contnued up - to be stunned by the paradisical panorama that presented itself to me- mountains and hills rolling into the distance- covered in forst- houses and villagers, towns nestled among the greend hills, the periyar lake snaking its way around in between the hills to the south, larger mountains to the east in Tamil Nadu, a 360 degree view at sunset, the highest peak around, it turned out randomly that this was the best place i could possibly have gotten to for 50kms, i was the only person at the top - a viewing tower to myself-i felt very lucky and meditated in peace and solitude for a few moments as the sun retreat below the distant horizon.
The national park though- gladly having developed along the path of eco-tourism - the authorities had neglected to provide any kind of activities for a budget indpenedant traveller like me- all activities inside the park had to be guided- including walks- and the entry price for foreigners was more and 1000% of the indian price- i felt like id be getting a sterile jungle experience- plus it was a weekend aand full of local tourists so wouldnt be much chgance of quiet 'communion with nature' so i decided to pass on the park itself and di some more exploring around by bicycle instead. Found a forested area and trkked on into the bush after i spotted a group of black langurs (i had first seen these creatures on a cycle to the tribal museum in ooty- that was 1st wild sighting). Folowed the monkeys up a hill through thick forest, saw some other small mammals, birds and got amongst the plants, earth and trees in the diverse and colourful forest- this was a good enough experience of the park for me! Rode on through some more tradtional villagers just ouside the park- seeing the tradtional huts, bamboo set up of homes and got into an argument with an arrogant park warden who was on thin ground when he feigned at threatening me with his rifle. Apparently i was in a restricted area but the gate was wide open - signs in Tamil- when i tried to discuss things with him he acted like he didnt need a reason. I guess this small guy wanted to feel superior (a common disease). Anyway, It was a pleasant afternoon exploring.
The next day i got the bus (2 buses) back to Kochi for my train the next day. Caught up on a couple of sights seeing the inside of the synagoue and admiring the wonderful painted fresoces inside the dutch palace in Matancheerry- including a very suggestive painting of Krishna with 6 arms put to full use with 6 loving gopis. Othwerwise equal emphasis on Siva and Vishnu at this palace. The night i arrived in Kochi i also caught up with a travelling friend- Mukti from Mandu. Meeting up with him at a local temple, there was an unexpected surprise when i wandered for a casual look into the temple grounds after 11pm, when to my amazement an elaborate, colorful and noisy temple ceremony- (more like a festival!) was going on. 7 huge male tusked elephants, colorfully painted with flowers and with gold plated headeress flowng down their trunks, on each sat 3 solemn looking men dressed in white robes and carrying large white tassles of hair and wheel shaped symbols. Ahead of them was an orchestra of painted men in only trousers with drums, flutes, symbols, and long curved trumpets- playing a in a deep, thumping and hynoptic rythm that gradually gained in intensity, with the attendants on elephant back performing standing and circular waving motions with tassles and circular symbols in time to the music beat. There was a pattern to the ceremonies as we circled around the temple and repeated the dose- An annual festival, this had been going on for hours, and continued the following day (i visited again)- with different numbers of elephants according to the stage of the ceremony, and joined by a choir of small children. The music was earthy and mesmirisingly powerful, it seemed to reach in to the insides and shake them into action. This is a way of cleansing the temple each year and scaring away evil spirits. Little notice was taken of the few foreign visitors as we stared on in wonder- ahhh, this is the India that fascinates me!
It was a fun and smooth overnight train to Chennai (though departing 1 hr late). had some interesting chats the following morning with 2 girls moving to Chennai to work for an IT company, and a couple of gents who were returning from the huge pilgramiage to Sabriamala temple. This pilgrimage has massive attendances- 30 million people travelled there over 2 days this year (no kidding!). They go to view a sacred jyorthilingam - a flickering flame that magically appears in a forest clearing every year on a certain day and time- these 2 chaps swore they had seen it every time on their numerous trips to this festival. The legend behind this sacred place surrounds a child born of two male parents (co-incidentally these two men on the train kept talking about both of 'their' son, and women are not allowed on this pilgrimage- geez, what goes on there?) shiva and vishnu- who took a female form in order to give birth to ayappa. There is also a female goddess worshipped at the site who is said to have gained moksha- and risen to the abode of gods- through her penance, dedication to god and chatisty. Are they trying to say that 2 men make good parents? Can't answer this one.
Think this post is long enough already! Could go on with more topics and discussions of travelling in India, the country's imperial legacy & stories of folks ive met, bit ill have to leave it their for now.
Next post i will give the the stories from Mamallapuram and Chennai- though im already passed them and on to Kolkata now! tomorrow off to good old Bangkok- soon will be meeting 2 Melbourne mates and heading to beaches, jungles, so more stories to come there.
Take care and peace be with us friends!
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Welcome to south India- join me for a sample of the delights of Bangalore, Mysore and Ooty in this latest blogging tirade.
So i last wrote from Bangalore, after a day of discoveries there- but neglected to put these in the last entry- So here goes!
Bangalore- capital of Karnataka state- Imagine a city of 6 million people- the 5th largest city in India, home of cutting-edge e-age industries and ground zero of the outsourcing boom- Think of those strange accented and insistent telemarketers that promote obscure merchandise and seem to call at the most awkward times- you are probably speaking to a Bangalaru (as the locals call themselves)! This business has brought alot of prosperity (relatively) to the city, and nowadays one can walk down busy streets full of fashionably dressed and acessorised young people, past lines of brightly lit big brand clothing, fashion, sports shops, fast food chains, air con shoppin malls and high rise commercial buildings. On the other hand there is still some very dingy streets and run-down areas, beggars etc.
A bit of fun was had in the morning i went out to explore some sights, planning to do some long walks in-between locations- when quite a cheap rickshaw fare offered tempted me to take the easier option in the searing heat. However we flew past the destination we agreed on - and when i protested to the driver- feigning to jump out of the rickshaw at full speed- he offered a 'free drop' if i just visited one shop for 5 minutes. I was familiar with this scam though, and upon further enquiry he addmitted to me that he gets free petrol for dropping me at a shop (though i reckon he may just get cash in this case). Anyway it seemed a harmless enough exercise and despite my protestations it looked like the only way i could get the guy to drop me where i wanted to go(!)- so i figured i would dust off my bollywood skills and pretend to be interested for a few minutes in this one shop. In the shop it turned out there was no very 'hard sell' for the overpriced goods beyond the repeated and gradually more insistent attempt at power of suggestion, but after escaping this shop unscathed (financially too!) i didnt predict that the rickshaw driver would try to pull another shifty- insisting 'only one more shop' this time offering me a free drop to anywhere in the city and cash in hand to boot! My greedy deal swinging instincts were overcome by common sense this time and i jumped out soon as we slowed in traffic ( luckily in a one-way street)- though i kinda liked the idea of swindling these exortionate false 'government shops' in tandem with this rickshaw man, i had things to do, places to see. So i found my way to MG- commercial hub amazed at the posh style shops, then went for a long 4km walk past old govts buildings, parks and new freeway overpasses to the extensive lalbagh botanic gardens in the south of the city- lakes, flower gardens, tropical plants massive old trees, couples, families and groups entertaining themselves leisurely. I met a young guy from orissa there who was doing his own sightseeing so we decided to cruise to a few places together. Cubben park, the colonial supreme court, majestic and huge dravidian style government house and the central market were on the agenda. I have to say that the reputation bangloreans have for being friendly was upheld by my experiences- a nice introduction to South India and the more relaxed inter-personal feel.
Visiting Mysore brought back many pleasing childhood memories from Jan 1994 when i visited here with family, though this time of course i couldnt afford anything like the extravagantly sized rooms we stayed in then. The city has apparently also progressed well since then, with a sense of dynamism about the place, a fleet of flash new AC public buses zipping around town, new fancy buildings, good signage, many new cars on the streets. I Returned by public bus for a visit to the massive monolithic stone bull on Chamundi hill beside mysore, also visiting the nearby sacred hilltop temple to goddess Durga, where pilgrims are processed orderly through gates. Nearby the Durga temple i discovered a 'museum of god' in a strange lookin building, my first impression were positive, with peaceful, ecumenial messages. It turned out this was a place promoting 'Rajayoga'. However i was a touch put off by the attendants proclamations of absolute truth in only one god- named shiva, he also promised the reward for practitioners of being reborn as a king- surely an selfish/elitist philiosophy!
Was also lucky to be in town on sunday for the palace viewing all lit up by 20,000 odd globes- very majestic, pleasant atmosphere amongst the crowds of locals and visitors.
people in mysore were very friendly- got a free motorcycle lift back to the city off one fitness keen chap who i met jogging down the hill- he was proud to tell me about his work for the central government customs department- don't think this nice chap asks for too many bribes! Also played cricket with some young and enthusiatic local guys, very friendly too- most of them uni graduates and studying for MBAs and such- too bad the boys cricket grounds were were squashed and displaced by the cities 'progress' as new developments sprang up!
from Mysore to Ooty- a hill station at 2240m in the north western corner of tamil Nadu state this was an altogether different destination. The climbing 5 hour journey gave some awesome views across the plains and to other distant mountain ranges, and we also passed the mudumalai national park in the corner of 3 states- thick forests, lush greenery, saw a herd of spotted deer by the roadside and momentarily regretted not staying over in this place- but on i had to go. In Ooty there were many relics of the time when this was a mountain escape for colonial blow-in's unused to the Indian heat- mansions, gardens planted with European plants, trees- oaks, flowers etc. visited a mountaintop- doodabetta- the highest mountain in southern india for a magnificent view over hills, forests, valleys and plain covering several states of India. The Botanic gardens was attractive and popular with the many local tourists on jan 1 - but the minority Toda group village was human-zoo like (complete with drunken tribal man mumbling aggressively) when compared to the fascinating tribal museum and research centre that i visited the following day- many insights into the diverse origins and unusual practices of the 8 main identified tribal minority groups of Southern India. On Jan 1 i was lucky enough to meet some lovely girls from Mizoram in NE India while in the botanic gardens, they were here for work training and i spent the next couple of evening hanging out with them. Interesting to hear about the life and situation up in the Northeast-e.g. these girls were christian looked Thai/Vietnamese/Chinese and spoke a language (the native language of Mizoram) that sounded like Canto.
the forested hills, lake and mountainsides gave Ooty a somehwat romantic quality (i was affected by it too!)- not lost on the many Indian honeymooners who could be seen there, and the place also had a very much leisure oriented vibe- many families too in fun parks riding colourful plastic cars and planes, jumping castles etc. A highlight was the slow mini-steam train journey down out of the monutains througfh other small towns and villages and with glorious views of valleys and cliffs, birds monkeys around- for 3.5 hours to travel 46km it felt like the right speed to enjoy the view (kinda like cycling). Sat beside another gorup of very friendly and charming Jain people from gujarat who endearned themselves to me with theirt conversation and manners- so many of the nicest people i have met in India have been Jain!
2 regular train rides later and i arrived in kochi- capital of kerala state- the following morning.
first place i stayed and visited was Fort Kochi for 2 nights- were the Portuguese, dutch and British had each taken their turn to rule and leave their mark on the town and its architecture. A popular tourist haunt- this place had many old churches, a dutch palace, fort ruins and uniquely had a 16th century synagogue- apparently jews had been prominent citizens of this area and given special status by the pre-colonial rulers. cycled around the main sites and also kept abreast of the test cricket results which ended up steeped in controversy........... The locals i spoke to were not at all happy about that one!
So i last wrote from Bangalore, after a day of discoveries there- but neglected to put these in the last entry- So here goes!
Bangalore- capital of Karnataka state- Imagine a city of 6 million people- the 5th largest city in India, home of cutting-edge e-age industries and ground zero of the outsourcing boom- Think of those strange accented and insistent telemarketers that promote obscure merchandise and seem to call at the most awkward times- you are probably speaking to a Bangalaru (as the locals call themselves)! This business has brought alot of prosperity (relatively) to the city, and nowadays one can walk down busy streets full of fashionably dressed and acessorised young people, past lines of brightly lit big brand clothing, fashion, sports shops, fast food chains, air con shoppin malls and high rise commercial buildings. On the other hand there is still some very dingy streets and run-down areas, beggars etc.
A bit of fun was had in the morning i went out to explore some sights, planning to do some long walks in-between locations- when quite a cheap rickshaw fare offered tempted me to take the easier option in the searing heat. However we flew past the destination we agreed on - and when i protested to the driver- feigning to jump out of the rickshaw at full speed- he offered a 'free drop' if i just visited one shop for 5 minutes. I was familiar with this scam though, and upon further enquiry he addmitted to me that he gets free petrol for dropping me at a shop (though i reckon he may just get cash in this case). Anyway it seemed a harmless enough exercise and despite my protestations it looked like the only way i could get the guy to drop me where i wanted to go(!)- so i figured i would dust off my bollywood skills and pretend to be interested for a few minutes in this one shop. In the shop it turned out there was no very 'hard sell' for the overpriced goods beyond the repeated and gradually more insistent attempt at power of suggestion, but after escaping this shop unscathed (financially too!) i didnt predict that the rickshaw driver would try to pull another shifty- insisting 'only one more shop' this time offering me a free drop to anywhere in the city and cash in hand to boot! My greedy deal swinging instincts were overcome by common sense this time and i jumped out soon as we slowed in traffic ( luckily in a one-way street)- though i kinda liked the idea of swindling these exortionate false 'government shops' in tandem with this rickshaw man, i had things to do, places to see. So i found my way to MG- commercial hub amazed at the posh style shops, then went for a long 4km walk past old govts buildings, parks and new freeway overpasses to the extensive lalbagh botanic gardens in the south of the city- lakes, flower gardens, tropical plants massive old trees, couples, families and groups entertaining themselves leisurely. I met a young guy from orissa there who was doing his own sightseeing so we decided to cruise to a few places together. Cubben park, the colonial supreme court, majestic and huge dravidian style government house and the central market were on the agenda. I have to say that the reputation bangloreans have for being friendly was upheld by my experiences- a nice introduction to South India and the more relaxed inter-personal feel.
Visiting Mysore brought back many pleasing childhood memories from Jan 1994 when i visited here with family, though this time of course i couldnt afford anything like the extravagantly sized rooms we stayed in then. The city has apparently also progressed well since then, with a sense of dynamism about the place, a fleet of flash new AC public buses zipping around town, new fancy buildings, good signage, many new cars on the streets. I Returned by public bus for a visit to the massive monolithic stone bull on Chamundi hill beside mysore, also visiting the nearby sacred hilltop temple to goddess Durga, where pilgrims are processed orderly through gates. Nearby the Durga temple i discovered a 'museum of god' in a strange lookin building, my first impression were positive, with peaceful, ecumenial messages. It turned out this was a place promoting 'Rajayoga'. However i was a touch put off by the attendants proclamations of absolute truth in only one god- named shiva, he also promised the reward for practitioners of being reborn as a king- surely an selfish/elitist philiosophy!
Was also lucky to be in town on sunday for the palace viewing all lit up by 20,000 odd globes- very majestic, pleasant atmosphere amongst the crowds of locals and visitors.
people in mysore were very friendly- got a free motorcycle lift back to the city off one fitness keen chap who i met jogging down the hill- he was proud to tell me about his work for the central government customs department- don't think this nice chap asks for too many bribes! Also played cricket with some young and enthusiatic local guys, very friendly too- most of them uni graduates and studying for MBAs and such- too bad the boys cricket grounds were were squashed and displaced by the cities 'progress' as new developments sprang up!
from Mysore to Ooty- a hill station at 2240m in the north western corner of tamil Nadu state this was an altogether different destination. The climbing 5 hour journey gave some awesome views across the plains and to other distant mountain ranges, and we also passed the mudumalai national park in the corner of 3 states- thick forests, lush greenery, saw a herd of spotted deer by the roadside and momentarily regretted not staying over in this place- but on i had to go. In Ooty there were many relics of the time when this was a mountain escape for colonial blow-in's unused to the Indian heat- mansions, gardens planted with European plants, trees- oaks, flowers etc. visited a mountaintop- doodabetta- the highest mountain in southern india for a magnificent view over hills, forests, valleys and plain covering several states of India. The Botanic gardens was attractive and popular with the many local tourists on jan 1 - but the minority Toda group village was human-zoo like (complete with drunken tribal man mumbling aggressively) when compared to the fascinating tribal museum and research centre that i visited the following day- many insights into the diverse origins and unusual practices of the 8 main identified tribal minority groups of Southern India. On Jan 1 i was lucky enough to meet some lovely girls from Mizoram in NE India while in the botanic gardens, they were here for work training and i spent the next couple of evening hanging out with them. Interesting to hear about the life and situation up in the Northeast-e.g. these girls were christian looked Thai/Vietnamese/Chinese and spoke a language (the native language of Mizoram) that sounded like Canto.
the forested hills, lake and mountainsides gave Ooty a somehwat romantic quality (i was affected by it too!)- not lost on the many Indian honeymooners who could be seen there, and the place also had a very much leisure oriented vibe- many families too in fun parks riding colourful plastic cars and planes, jumping castles etc. A highlight was the slow mini-steam train journey down out of the monutains througfh other small towns and villages and with glorious views of valleys and cliffs, birds monkeys around- for 3.5 hours to travel 46km it felt like the right speed to enjoy the view (kinda like cycling). Sat beside another gorup of very friendly and charming Jain people from gujarat who endearned themselves to me with theirt conversation and manners- so many of the nicest people i have met in India have been Jain!
2 regular train rides later and i arrived in kochi- capital of kerala state- the following morning.
first place i stayed and visited was Fort Kochi for 2 nights- were the Portuguese, dutch and British had each taken their turn to rule and leave their mark on the town and its architecture. A popular tourist haunt- this place had many old churches, a dutch palace, fort ruins and uniquely had a 16th century synagogue- apparently jews had been prominent citizens of this area and given special status by the pre-colonial rulers. cycled around the main sites and also kept abreast of the test cricket results which ended up steeped in controversy........... The locals i spoke to were not at all happy about that one!
Sooooo…
Kerala has been quite paradisical- long sandy beaches, palm fringed backwaters, lush vegetation, relaxed atmosphere, clear blue sky, bright sun, smiling locals.
There is much to be said for Kerala as a destination for visitors- it is much more hospitable than other parts of India an eclectic culture and many interesting places to visit.
My first day in Kerala I traveled the length and breadth of an offshore island (linked by modern bridges) looking for accommodation- without success- but found much more in the shape of quiet palm-fringed beaches (I couldn’t believe there was so few hotels!) serene backwaters, dolphin watching from the ferry ride across the bay, a Christian ‘Jesus wisdom’ festival that packed out the streets so the bus could hardly squeeze through the crowds (haven’t seen a Christian event attracting those kind of crowds in Oz!)- illustrating the 19% population of Kerala that is Christian. In the words of Nobel Laureate Amartya Sen, Kerala is also Indias most ‘socially advanced’ state- with the highest literacy (93%), education and health ratings and one of the highest average incomes in the country- and some credit must be given to the communist government that has been in charge in Kerala for years. Just traveling the streets one gets a sense that there is a certain standard maintained, a basic dignity of existence and resources afforded to all citizens. Chatting to a young and bright staff (the most knowledgable youth I had met in India) at my hotel in the capital city (it felt more like a town) Kochi, there were some complaints of opportunities like the IT boom lost due to communist dogmatic hostility to Western (e.g. US) interests and such foreign investment, others i spoke to were more happy with the governments performance. I saw democracy in action on a couple of occasions with small street protests arguing for fairer resource allocation and job opportunities- i guess this comes from the literacy that people feel confident to assert their opinions. Many people were anxious to tell me (some rather insistently) that Kerala is ‘gods own country’ as the tourism slogan goes- it seems to have caught on!
A most enjoyable day was had while cycling through coastal villages outside of Kollam, swimming in some pristine and almost deserted beaches, schools of small flashing silver fish brushing against my legs in apparent curiousity, trying the local toddy (coconut liquor) brew that is very popular with local gents, visitng a tall lighthouse, lunching on a delicious seafood feast, visiting churches, temples and mosques and getting to know a few of the locals who seem to have a different outlook on life from other Indians I had met- perhaps it’s the weather and environment that just chills them out a touch.
Today visited a old palace of the Travancore (name during British era) kings- made all of wood, attractive, large, and cleverly designed and cool inside despite the heat- it featured a prayer room, bathing place, conference hall, bedroom, with coins, weapons and beautiful paintings on display.
Kerala has been quite paradisical- long sandy beaches, palm fringed backwaters, lush vegetation, relaxed atmosphere, clear blue sky, bright sun, smiling locals.
There is much to be said for Kerala as a destination for visitors- it is much more hospitable than other parts of India an eclectic culture and many interesting places to visit.
My first day in Kerala I traveled the length and breadth of an offshore island (linked by modern bridges) looking for accommodation- without success- but found much more in the shape of quiet palm-fringed beaches (I couldn’t believe there was so few hotels!) serene backwaters, dolphin watching from the ferry ride across the bay, a Christian ‘Jesus wisdom’ festival that packed out the streets so the bus could hardly squeeze through the crowds (haven’t seen a Christian event attracting those kind of crowds in Oz!)- illustrating the 19% population of Kerala that is Christian. In the words of Nobel Laureate Amartya Sen, Kerala is also Indias most ‘socially advanced’ state- with the highest literacy (93%), education and health ratings and one of the highest average incomes in the country- and some credit must be given to the communist government that has been in charge in Kerala for years. Just traveling the streets one gets a sense that there is a certain standard maintained, a basic dignity of existence and resources afforded to all citizens. Chatting to a young and bright staff (the most knowledgable youth I had met in India) at my hotel in the capital city (it felt more like a town) Kochi, there were some complaints of opportunities like the IT boom lost due to communist dogmatic hostility to Western (e.g. US) interests and such foreign investment, others i spoke to were more happy with the governments performance. I saw democracy in action on a couple of occasions with small street protests arguing for fairer resource allocation and job opportunities- i guess this comes from the literacy that people feel confident to assert their opinions. Many people were anxious to tell me (some rather insistently) that Kerala is ‘gods own country’ as the tourism slogan goes- it seems to have caught on!
A most enjoyable day was had while cycling through coastal villages outside of Kollam, swimming in some pristine and almost deserted beaches, schools of small flashing silver fish brushing against my legs in apparent curiousity, trying the local toddy (coconut liquor) brew that is very popular with local gents, visitng a tall lighthouse, lunching on a delicious seafood feast, visiting churches, temples and mosques and getting to know a few of the locals who seem to have a different outlook on life from other Indians I had met- perhaps it’s the weather and environment that just chills them out a touch.
Today visited a old palace of the Travancore (name during British era) kings- made all of wood, attractive, large, and cleverly designed and cool inside despite the heat- it featured a prayer room, bathing place, conference hall, bedroom, with coins, weapons and beautiful paintings on display.
Even in Kerala though, where women are more respected and given greater role in society (they even feel free to smile, and, shock horror- giggle in public on occasion!!), i have to say that rules of interpersonal (esp. with strangers) relations seem ruled by male force as opposed to female principle. When im travelling in new countries, i like to tap in to the local customs, habits, manners, to break down the insider/outsider barriers, but this has been a challenge here- there are few patterns of politness or common niceities that i can ascertain. Itseems as close to chaos or anarachy as any human society that i have experienced. As an independent traveller, it is testing, as without these basic principles of reasonable conduct to fall back upon, i feel like i need to be 'ready for battle' at all times, and this creates some stress, combined with the communication, time and money pressures, travelling here can be unpleasant. This is no denunciation of India though- she is a vast and immeasurably diverse land, of course general criticisms hardly suffice, and time may tell if governments and society succeed in breaking down caste traditions and instilling mass literacy- these obvious barriers to human fulfillment can be removed- but with the pressures of neo-liberal globalisation (money and GDP growth ahead of social outcomes), not to mention traditionalist and communalist politics (a resurgent Hindutva movement and BJP party) this potential for progress is hardly a foregone conclusion. Let us pray for India!
next i will tell you about more about Kollam, Kanyakumari and Varkala (where i am now) and should have some stories from the deep and wild jungles of Periyar sanctuary too!
see you next time!
next i will tell you about more about Kollam, Kanyakumari and Varkala (where i am now) and should have some stories from the deep and wild jungles of Periyar sanctuary too!
see you next time!
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